Umkomaas & Aliwal Shoal

South Africa were spent just south of Durban in theRag-tooth Shark and a turtle eating some soft coral.
town of Umkomaas which is close to the famousAll in all, it wasn’t a bad collection of pictures but
Aliwal Shoals. Diving is normally from RIBs (Rigidback on the surface, I was a lot less comfortable and
Inflatable Boats) so groups are small and it’s awas very glad when we got back on dry land. A
bit of fun getting to and from the dive sites. My finalcooked breakfast and nice cup of tea soon sorted me
few days in South Africa were spent just south ofout ready for an afternoon of laziness.
Durban in the town of Umkomaas which is close toMy third and final days diving saw the best conditions
the famous Aliwal Shoals. Located about 30 milesso far. The sea was very flat and visibility under the
south of Durban, Umkomaas is a small town thatsurface was much improved. Just prior to jumping in,
seems to be there primarily for the diving industry and Iwe found a number of dolphins who predictably
stayed at the Aliwal Dive Centre which haddisappear as soon as the cameras were ready. Never
accommodation on site. This suited me fine as diving inmind, we had 50 minutes underwater ahead of us and
KwaZulu Natal generally starts early and is finished byin we went. As the previous 2 days, there was a
lunchtime as by then the sea has started to get a bitsurge and a current but there was also a variety of
too rough.marine life and I managed to get photos of Potato
Diving is normally from RIBs (Rigid Inflatable Boats) soCod, Clown Fish, Sea Snake (back half), Scorpion Fish,
groups are small and it’s a bit of fun getting toMoray Eel and a partly hidden Octopus.
and from the dive sites. I prebooked 3 days diving (2Not bad and we were soon back on board heading
dives a day) and arrived around 6:30pm the nightback to shore. However, June/July in KZN sees the
before where I met one of the Divemasters and aannual Sardine Run and there had been reports of a
couple of other lads who were staying at the centre.large shoal about 100km south of us. On the way back
After I put my luggage in my room, we went aroundwe say some activity to the south and headed over
the corner for something to eat before crashing out asto investigate. There we found a small shoal of
it was an early start in the morning. sardines being attacked by a number of sharks. We
Aliwal Shoal has a reputation as one of the best divealso noticed that more and more fishermen were
sites in the world and is a hot spot for sharks soappearing on the coast. The arrival of the Sardines is a
having spent the previous week viewing landbig event each winter and they are remorselessly
predators, it was the turn of the their marineattack by predators from land (humans), sea (dolphins,
counterparts. The briefing was straightforward and wetuna, sharks, whales) and the air (gannets and other
were soon off out to the first dive site. The marine lifesea birds).
viewing started in spectacular fashion before we evenI decided to abandon the 2nd dive of the morning as I
reached the dive site with 3 humpbacked whaleswanted to see something of the Sardine Run before I
appearing close by so we took time to head over toleft. I had my breakfast, showered, changed and
them and took a few pictures. Soon they disappearedheaded back to the coast. Most of the parking places
from view leaving us with the classic ‘whaleand vantage points were busy by now and more
tale’ view so on we headed to the dive site.people were arriving all the time as word of the
Diving on Aliwal Shoal tends to always involve asardines spread. After a while, I went back to the dive
current and is always affected by surge so overall, itscentre and they suggested I head further south so off
not ideal for taking photos. However, its something II went and all along the coast road were fishermen
always try to do and the area is particularly wellparking up and I also saw people selling sardines from
known for rag-tooth and tiger sharks. My last dive hadbuckets that they had obviously caught earlier that
been in August last year so I started taking pictures ofday. Unfortunately, I didn’t see any ‘David
fairly mundane marine life just to get the cameraAttenborough’ type action with regards to the
settings correct. By the end of the 2nd dive, I hadSardines but it was interesting nonetheless and I did
managed 6 pictures that I was happy with including aget to see a little bit more of KZN.
small scorpion fish that I nearly put my hand on, aThe following morning, I enjoyed a bit of a lay in before
paper fish which I’d never seen before and athe mammoth task of trying to pack everything into
turtle.my suitcase. Over the last 2 weeks, I’d been
The following day, the sea was pretty rough withgiven so many things it was a real challenge to get the
swells of around 3m, not ideal for me as I suffer a bitsuitcase closed, never mind under the 23kg limit.
in small boats. Given the surface conditions, I was a bitHowever, I eventually binned quite a lot of unwanted
surprised that underwater, it was better than thepaper and the suitcase seemed quite light although the
previous day. I managed to get pictures of a Mantatrue test would come at check-in and the risk of
Shrimp, a couple of Ramoras (the long thing fish thatexcess baggage.
normally attach themselves to sharks), a video of a