| tart --> | | | | breeze welcomed us to our first day of hiking along |
| A hiking trip at the end of the world is not something I | | | | the shores of Lake Nordenskjold. I was advised this |
| would normally consider. I am a girly girl whose ears | | | | five-hour trek would be the easiest with rolling hills and |
| perk up at the mention of booking a "spa" or a "villa" | | | | only a few steep ascents. The azure blue water of |
| rather than doing "rugged mountain hiking." The luxury | | | | this dazzling lake was my constant companion as I |
| travel magazines Travel & Leisure and | | | | hiked along its path to our destination at Cuernos |
| Departures are my vacation planning sources. | | | | Lodge. It was a beautifully quiet day where nature was |
| Nonetheless, my tennis partner and good friend, Donna, | | | | picture-perfect. |
| had planned a trip to Patagonia to celebrate her | | | | Cuernos Lodge was the first time I had stayed at a |
| birthday and insisted I do something new and different | | | | hostel. Each traveler is given a sleeping bag and a |
| for my next vacation. Always up for an adventure, I | | | | bunk bed in a room with eight hikers. No thought is |
| agreed to tag along. | | | | given to gender or nationality. You just grab a bunk |
| Two months later I found myself on a 10-hour flight | | | | and hit hay. The lower bunks always get snatched up |
| from Dallas to Santiago: the first leg of a trip that | | | | quickly as hikers are exhausted from the trek and |
| would end at Torres del Paine National Park in | | | | don't want to climb one more thing at the day's end. I |
| Patagonia, Chile. Torres del Paine is a spectacular, | | | | even politely asked a flirtatious German man to switch |
| unspoiled national park boasting a breathtaking | | | | bunks with me as I was afraid of heights and received |
| mountain range, azure lakes, and magnificent flora and | | | | a solid "no way". It was everyman for himself. |
| fauna. Located 1,000 miles north of Antarctica, the park | | | | The next day we rose early to begin a challenging |
| attracts tourists from all over the world. | | | | ten-hour hike that runs along the base of Cuernos del |
| I didn't have time to do much research about the trip | | | | Paine, which are tremendous granite towers in the |
| and had envisioned the hike to be filled with rolling hills | | | | middle of this circuit, into the French Valley. It snowed |
| and gentle sloping paths set with a spectacular | | | | all day making the hike beautiful but a bit treacherous in |
| mountain view. The Sound of Music comes to mind. | | | | places. Covered in layers upon layers of clothing, toting |
| However, instead of a relaxing walk through nature, | | | | a heavy backpack, and walking in a line of similarly clad |
| the "W" Circuit (named based on the shape of the trail) | | | | travelers made me feel as if I was part of an Everest |
| was a truly challenging hike covering over 30 miles of | | | | Expedition. We hiked all morning until lunchtime where |
| territory in only four days. It was to be a grueling trip | | | | we sat in the snow to eat. Ravenous from the difficult |
| for a first-time hiker. | | | | trek I polished off two huge sandwiches in less than |
| The rugged terrain and long hiking days were not the | | | | five minutes. After lunch we had five more hours of |
| only challenges. Patagonia's remote location meant | | | | hiking. We all collapsed exhausted at Camp Pehoe at |
| there were no TV, radio, and phone or email access | | | | nightfall. |
| available. Having zero communication with the outside | | | | The third day took us through the Wind Valley and to |
| world was daunting, at first, but soon became one of | | | | the base of Grey Glacier. Unbelievable 45mph gusts |
| the most alluring aspects of the destination. Our | | | | of wind made the trek difficult. It was like hiking against |
| entertainment was the untarnished beauty of the | | | | a wall of hurricane-force wind. The ever-changing |
| region. Pure glacier-fed springs with fresh water and | | | | weather in Patagonia could be discussed at length but |
| magnificent mountains revealed nature at its best. | | | | suffice it to say that in a brief span of our four-day |
| After a layover in Santiago, the capital of Chile, we | | | | trek we experienced everything Mother Nature could |
| took a four-hour flight to Punta Arenas, the | | | | throw our way: bright sunshine and warm |
| southernmost city in the geographically long and skinny | | | | temperatures of 65 degrees, followed by |
| Chilean countryside. We stayed a night here before | | | | temperatures plummeting to the 30's with snow, rain |
| driving three hours to Puerto Natales, Chile, a small | | | | and winds close to 45 miles per hour. Travelers should |
| town that serves as the gateway to Torres del Paine | | | | bring all waterproof gear for the hike and dress in |
| National Park. Here travelers stock up on food and | | | | layers as the daily temperatures vary greatly in this |
| camping supplies before heading into the park. Our | | | | part of the world. |
| group had food and lodging supplied for us since we | | | | On our final day we left Eco-Camp and headed to the |
| had decided to take a small hiking tour arranged by an | | | | base of Torres, one of the most popular viewpoints on |
| American adventure travel company that specializes in | | | | the circuit. The challenging ten-hour hiking day began |
| South American treks. | | | | with bright, sunny skies as we hiked from Eco-Camp |
| The first day was a four-hour boat ride into the park | | | | to the Chilean Camp where we stopped for a quick |
| where we viewed a colony of condors, sea lions, | | | | rest. Hours later we found ourselves at the bottom of |
| massive glaciers, and an authentic estancia before | | | | what some refer to as Boulder City: a seemingly |
| stopping for lunch. After lunch was the | | | | endless expanse of large rock boulders heading |
| much-anticipated two-hour zodiac boat ride taking us | | | | upwards. At the top of the boulder field, far, far away |
| deep into the park and offering unsurpassed views of | | | | a saw a speck of a man. "We're going there?" I asked |
| Cuernos del Paine, a part of a magnificent mountain | | | | my guide in disbelief. I could not believe the trek that lay |
| range. It was beautiful ride but bone-chilling cold. Even | | | | ahead. As I took the slow climb up, I found myself |
| the immense parkas the guides wrapped us in were | | | | shedding layer up layer of clothing as my heart rate |
| not enough for the sharp Patagonian rain and winds in | | | | increased from the difficult climb. I crouched low and |
| the open boat. And, there are no bathrooms on | | | | steadily moved from rock to rock. At last I reached |
| zodiacs. I found that out the hard way. | | | | the top to glimpse the massive towers in the distance. I |
| After our zodiac trip ended, we were taken to our first | | | | felt truly insignificant compared to the majestic |
| night at Eco Camp, environment-friendly | | | | mountains surrounding us, and enjoyed the feeling. |
| accommodations comprised of private tents with two | | | | Back at Eco-Camp we all celebrated by sipping on |
| twin beds but no heat. Clean bathrooms with hot | | | | Pisco Sours, the country's national beverage made of |
| showers and delicious meals were provided. Here we | | | | pisco brandy sugar and lemon juice, and discussed the |
| met the other members of the hiking group: two ladies | | | | trip. While some felt a great sense of accomplishment |
| from Pittsburgh in their mid-50's, and a young couple | | | | for completing the circuit, I simply enjoyed the fact that |
| from Tampa. Everyone was a seasoned hiker with | | | | I had made it to the end in one piece. My friends |
| the exception of myself. We chatted over a hearty | | | | congratulated me on successfully completing my first |
| dinner and went to bed early for good night's rest | | | | hiking trip and prodded me to join them again on a |
| before the first hiking day. | | | | future trip in a new destination. Everest anyone? |
| Glorious blue skies, warm temperatures and a gentle | | | | |